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Using the Heat-Zone Map | How
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The AHS Heat-Zone
map is a copyrighted document that is wholly owned by the
American Horticultural Society. Any reference to, reproduction
of, or attempt to code plants using the map's information
without written consent by AHS is a violation of the
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The AHS Plant Heat Zone Map
by H. Marc Cathey, AHS
President Emeritus
Most gardeners are familiar with the
U.S. Department of Agriculture's Plant Hardiness Zone Map. By using
the map to find the zone in which you live, you will be able to
determine what plants will "winter over" in your garden and survive
for many years. That map was first published in 1960 and updated in
1990. Today nearly all American references books, nursery catalogs,
and gardening magazines describe plants using USDA Zones.
But as we all know, cold isn't the only factor determining
whether our plants will survive and thrive. Particularly during
seasons of drought, we are all aware of the impact that heat has on
our plants. Based on numerous studies, the consensus of scientists
is that our planet's climate is warming because of changes in its
atmosphere
The effects of heat damage are more subtle than those of extreme
cold, which will kill a plant instantly. Heat damage can first
appear in many different parts of the plant: Flower buds may wither,
leaves may droop or become more attractive to insects, chlorophyll
may disappear so that leaves appear white or brown, or roots may
cease growing. Plant death from heat is slow and lingering. The
plant may survive in a stunted or chlorotic state for several years.
When desiccation reaches a high enough level, the enzymes that
control growth are deactivated and the plant dies.

USING THE HEAT-ZONE MAP
Use the AHS Plant Heat-Zone Map in the same way that you do
the Hardiness Map. Start by finding your town or city on the map.
The larger versions of the map have county outlines that may help
you do this.
The 12 zones of the map indicate the average number of days each
year that a given region experiences "heat days"-temperatures over
86 degrees (30 degrees Celsius). That is the point at which plants
begin suffering physiological damage from heat. The zones range from
Zone 1 (less than one heat day) to Zone 12 (more than 210 heat
days).
Thousands of garden plants have now been coded for heat
tolerance, with more to come in the near future. You will see the
heat zone designations joining
hardiness zone designations in garden centers, references books, and
catalogs. On each plant, there will be four numbers. For example, a
tulip may be 3-8, 8-1. If you live in USDA Zone 7 and AHS Zone 7,
you will know that you can leave tulips outdoors in your garden
year-round. An ageratum may be 10-11, 12-1. It can withstand summer
heat throughout the United States, but will over winter only in our
warmest zones. An English wallflower may be 5-8, 6-1. It is
relatively cold hardy, but can't tolerate extreme summer heat.
Gardeners categorize plants using such tags as "annual" or
"perennial," "temperate" or "tropical," but these tags can obscure
rather than illuminate our understanding of exactly how plants sense
and use the growth-regulating stimuli sent by their environment.
Many of the plants that we consider annuals-such as the petunia,
coleus, snapdragon, and vinca-are capable of living for years in a
frost-free environment. The Heat Map will differ from the Hardiness
Map in assigning codes to "annuals," including vegetables and herbs,
and ultimately field crops as well.
Plants vary in their ability to
withstand heat, not only from species to species but even among
individual plants of the same species! Unusual seasons-fewer or more
hot days than normal-will invariably affect results in your garden.
And even more than with the hardiness zones, we expect gardeners to
find that many plants will survive outside their designated heat
zone. This is because so many other factors complicate a plant's
reaction to heat.
Most important, the AHS Plant Heat-Zone ratings assume that
adequate water is supplied to the roots of the plant at all times.
The accuracy of the zone coding can be substantially distorted by a
lack of water, even for a brief period in the life of the plant.
Although some plants are naturally more drought tolerant than
others, horticulture by definition means growing plants in a
protected, artificial environment where stresses are different than
in nature. No plant can survive becoming completely dessicated. Heat
damage is always linked to an insufficient amount of water being
available to the plant. Herbaceous plants are 80 to 90 percent
water, and woody plants are about 50 percent water. Plant tissues
must contain enough water to keep their cells turgid and to sustain
the plant's processes of chemical and energy transport.
Watering directly at the roots of a plant-through drip irrigation
for instance-conserves water that would be lost to evaporation or
runoff during overhead watering. In addition, plants take in water
more efficiently when it is applied to their roots rather than their
leaves. Mulching will also help conserve water.
There are other factors that can cause stress to plants and skew
the heat-zone rating. Some of them are more controllable than
others.
Oxygen. Plant cells require oxygen for respiration. Either too
much or too little water can cut off the oxygen supply to the roots
and lead to a toxic situation. You can control the amount of oxygen
your plant roots receive by making sure your plants have good
aeration-adequate space between soil particles.
Light. Light affects plants in two ways. First, it is essential
for photosynthesis-providing the energy to split water molecules,
take up and fix carbon dioxide, and synthesize the building blocks
for growth and development. Light also creates heat. Light from the
entire spectrum can enter a living body, but only rays with shorter
wavelengths can exit. The energy absorbed affects the temperature of
the plant. Cloud cover, moisture in the air, and the ozone
layer-factors we gardeners can't control-affect light and
temperature. But you can adjust light by choosing to situate your
plant in dappled shade, for instance, if you are in its southernmost
recommended heat zone.
Daylength. Daylength is a critical factor in regulating
vegetative growth, flower initiation and development, and the
induction of dormancy. The long days of summer add substantially to
the potential for heat to have a profound effect on plant survival. In herbaceous perennials and many woody species, there is a
strong interaction between temperature and daylength. This is not a
controllable factor in most home gardening situations.
Air movement. While a gentle spring breeze can "cool" a plant
through transpiration as it does us, fast-moving air on a hot day
can have a negative effect, rapidly dehydrating it. Air movement in
a garden is affected by natural features such as proximity to bodies
of water and the presence of surrounding vegetation, as well as
structures such as buildings and roads. You can reduce air
circulation by erecting fences and planting hedges.
Surrounding structures. If the environment is wooded,
transpiration from trees and shrubs will cool the air. On the other
hand, structures of brick, stone, glass, concrete, plastic, or wood
will emit heat and raise the air temperature. Gardeners wanting
plants to produce early or survive in cold zones will often plant
them on the south side of a brick wall. Obviously, this would not be
a good place for a plant at the southern limit of its heat zone!
Soil pH. The ability of plant roots to take up water and
nutrients depends on the relative alkalinity or acidity of the soil.
Most plants prefer a soil close to neutral (pH 7), but there are
many exceptions, such as members of the heath family, which prefer
acidic soil. The successful cultivation of any plant requires that
it be grown in a medium within a specific pH range. While it is
possible to manipulate the pH of soil with amendments, it is easier
to choose plants appropriate to your soil type.
Nutrients. Plants vary greatly in the ratio and form of elements
they need for consistent, healthy growth. When these are present in
appropriate quantities, they are recycled over and over again as the
residue of woody material and dropped leaves accumulates and decays,
creating sustainable landscapes.

HOW THE MAP WAS CREATED
The data used to create the map were obtained from the
archives of the National Climatic Data Center. From these archives,
Meteorological Evaluation Services Co., Inc., in Amityville, New
York-which was also involved in the creation of the Hardiness
Map-compiled and analyzed National Weather Service (NWS) daily high
temperatures recorded between 1974 and 1995. Within the contiguous
48 states, only NWS stations that recorded maximum daily
temperatures for at least 12 years were included. (Due to the amount
of missing data in Alaska and Hawaii, the 12-year requirement was
reduced to seven years at several stations.)
Because they were too difficult to map, data from weather
stations at or near mountain peaks in sparsely populated areas were
not incorporated. A total of 7,831 weather stations were processed;
4,745 were used in plotting the map.
PURCHASE A COPY OF THE MAP
Durable full-color posters of the AHS Heat-Zone Map are available for
$9.95 each. To order
click here
or , call (800) 777-7931 ext. 119.

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